Alden Shell Cordovans: Airport-Friendly Footwear?

Alden Shell Cordovan shoes are made with Genuine Shell Cordovan leather from the famous Horween Tannery in Chicago. They are an extremely durable, scuff-resistant type of shoe that takes a high shine. The tanning process for Horween Shell Cordovan is complex and takes at least six months to complete. This makes the shoes quite expensive. But are they airport-friendly?

The pros and cons of shell cordovan

Shell cordovan is a unique type of leather with a range of pros and cons to consider before purchasing.

Pros

The pros of shell cordovan are well-known to most. It has a distinctive shine, a long lifespan, and develops a beautiful patina over time. Shell cordovan is an extremely durable, scuff-resistant leather that takes a high shine. It is sourced from the hindquarters of a horse and undergoes a complex, time-consuming treatment process lasting at least six months. This results in a material that is not only incredibly durable but also exhibits an unparalleled rich depth of colour. Its signature tight pore structure ensures it doesn't crease like other leathers, making it perfect for shoes that age gracefully.

Cons

The cons of shell cordovan are less commonly discussed. Firstly, it is a rather stiff, thick, and dense material, which can make it challenging to break in and uncomfortable for those with sensitive feet. The density of shell cordovan also means it doesn't breathe well and doesn't absorb moisture like regular leather, which can be problematic for people with perspiring feet, especially during warmer months. Additionally, shell cordovan is sensitive to water and can easily get stained, requiring treatment to improve its resistance to moisture and dirt.

The tanning process and how it affects the product

The tanning process for Horween Shell Cordovan is complex and time-consuming, taking at least six months to complete. The tanning process involves many labour-intensive steps where a lot of handwork is involved.

The process starts with salted horse hides sourced from France. The hides are then cut down by hand, with only the butt portion of the hide (the rear quarters of the horse) tanned as Shell Cordovan. This part of the animal is used because of its very dense fibre structure, which gives Cordovan leather its characteristic durability and strength.

To expose the shell, the leather is shaved on the flesh side (underside). The hides then undergo chemical treatments to remove the hair. They are then tanned in pits using a proprietary tanning solution made from chestnut and quebracho tree bark, as well as resins. The hides are placed in frames that agitate constantly to ensure the tanning solution is evenly distributed.

After thirty days, the hides are taken out of the solution and shaved again to expose the shell. They are then placed in another pit with a stronger solution and tanned for a further 30 days. The tanning process cannot be rushed, as the inside of the hide must be properly penetrated by the tannins.

Once the tanning process is complete, the hides require another four months of work before they become finished leather. They are polished and coloured by hand, and left to rest.

The tanning process gives Shell Cordovan its unique feel and look. It is a vegetable-tanned leather that is treated with oils during the tanning process, creating a slightly "spongy" texture that is not as stiff as chrome-tanned leather. The flesh side of the hide is finished and polished so intensely that the fibre structure becomes as smooth as the grain side, resulting in a rich, glossy look and feel.

The different styles of Alden shell cordovan shoes

Alden's Shell Cordovan shoes are made from exclusive luxury leather, sourced from the famous Horween Tannery in Chicago. The unique material is taken from the hindquarters of a horse and treated for at least six months, resulting in a durable, scuff-resistant leather with a rich depth of colour. The signature tight pore structure of the leather prevents creasing, allowing the shoes to age gracefully.

Alden's Shell Cordovan collection includes a range of timeless styles, such as:

• Iconic men's boots
• Easy-going loafers
• Solid bluchers
• Oxfords
• Monk straps
• Plain toe bluchers
• Straight tip bluchers
• Wingtip Bal Oxfords
• Saddle Bal Oxfords
• Norwegian front bluchers
• Algonquin V-tip bluchers

The shoes are available in a variety of colours, including black, cigar, ravello, whiskey, and the popular Color 8.

Alden Shell Cordovan shoes are known for their comfort and elegance, employing traditional techniques such as Goodyear welting and cork footbeds that contour to the shape of the wearer's feet. The result is a pair of shoes that look and feel incredible, even after extended wear.

How to care for shell cordovan shoes

Shell cordovan shoes are made from an extremely durable and scuff-resistant type of leather that comes from the hindquarters of a horse. This unique material undergoes a time-consuming treatment process lasting at least six months, resulting in a rich depth of colour and a tight pore structure that prevents creasing. While shell cordovan is a long-lasting and comfortable choice for shoes, it is also a stiff, dense, and less breathable material that can be challenging to break in.

• Use a brush to remove dirt and dust from your shoes. It is recommended to have a separate brush specifically for this task, rather than using a horsehair polishing brush.
• For more stubborn dirt, use a damp cloth to clean the shoes. Avoid using any soap or solvent-based fluids, and ensure the shoes dry naturally away from direct heat or moving air.
• For very stubborn stains, a light mixture of detergent and water can be used.
• Apply a small amount of cordovan cream to your shoes and leave it to rest for about 5 minutes. This helps to nourish the material. Repeat this process as needed, ensuring you do not apply too much product at once.
• After the cream has settled, use a fine/soft horsehair brush to brush the shoes in a back-and-forth motion, removing excess cream and evening out the colour.
• If necessary, repeat the process by applying another layer of cordovan cream.
• To add extra protection and shine, use a hard wax polish. Alternating wax applications with a small amount of water will build up a lustre.
• Buff the shoes with a soft, dry cotton cloth to remove any tiny brush marks and create a final shine. Be careful not to buff too hard, as shell cordovan does not react well to excessive heat due to its vegetable tanning.

Additionally, here are some extra tips for caring for your shell cordovan shoes:

• Use wooden shoe trees to help absorb moisture and maintain the shape of the shoes while they dry.
• A smooth deer bone can be used to remove scratches and encourage the natural fat liquors back to the surface, restoring shine to the shoes.
• To protect the sole edges and increase water resistance, use a hard wax crayon to apply a similar colour wax.

The history of the Alden Shoe Company

The Alden Shoe Company is an American shoe company founded in 1884 by Charles H. Alden in Middleborough, Massachusetts. With a vision to create shoes that could last a lifetime, the company has been crafting footwear for over 130 years, becoming a renowned brand in the world of high-quality footwear.

Alden began by manufacturing durable and comfortable shoes for both men and women, setting himself apart from other manufacturers by creating bespoke shoes tailored to his clients' needs. He believed that the key to making a good pair of shoes was to use the finest materials and employ the most skilled artisans. As such, he insisted on using the best leather and the Goodyear welt construction method, which made his shoes sturdy and adaptable to the wearer's feet.

Alden's commitment to quality and craftsmanship helped the company grow and expand. They continued to experiment with new styles and, by the early 20th century, had begun to manufacture loafers, dress shoes, and boots, as well as exporting their products to other countries. The company even survived the Great Depression and went on to manufacture shoes for the U.S. Army during World War II.

In the 1950s, Alden capitalised on the rise of the leisure shoe, manufacturing moccasins, loafers, and other casual shoes made with soft leather and cushioned soles. Their shoes became a staple in American fashion and were worn by prominent figures like John F. Kennedy.

In the 1960s, Alden developed shell cordovan leather, a new type of leather that is incredibly durable and has a unique texture and shine. This became a signature feature of Alden shoes, with customers specifically seeking out this leather. Today, Alden shoes are still made using the same traditional techniques and materials, with each pair crafted by hand, ensuring perfection and longevity.

The company's resilience, dedication to quality, and timeless designs have allowed it to endure and thrive, leaving an indelible mark on the world of footwear.

Frequently asked questions